I have put a further entry on my blog at http//:johnedwards-je.blogspot.com and so that will be the last blog of our travels but I will continue to write on my blog

HOME AT LAST

We arrived home last night after an 8 and half hour drive and 2 days on the boat!! (Or is it a ship)

We had a fantastic time.  Neither of us can pick a highlight as it was all brilliant, even the weather.  The Puffins in Northumberland were one of my best moments, but then so was the Crime Writing Festival in Harrogate, and seeing family and friends, and Shakespeare in Stratford and........ See what I mean impossible to pick a favourite.

Anyway back to normal now.  No real ale and on the diet again!!!

Hope to catch up with all our friends in Spain and we look forward to our next trip.

DOUBLE SHAKESPEARE

I booked tickets to see Richard III at The Swan in Stratford in July - I then got the date wrong and we missed it!!!!  We re booked and saw it today and it was amazing!! The theatre is fantastic.  We sat up in the gods but still had a great view.  Richard was played by an Irish actor whose accent took a bit of getting used to, however he was great. 

We had a couple of hours break, money on the car park and a quick dinner and a pint of Estrella!! and then back to the Royal Shakespeare Theatre for Twelfth Night.  This theatre is larger.  Again a fantastic production.  I think we both enjoyed it more - probably because it is a comedy.  I will never forget Malvolio´s entrance with a black rubber posing pouch and his cross gartered yellow stockings!!!

We had a fabulous time as you can probably tell and I would go again anytime.

OUR LAST TWO WEEKS

We are on the last part of our eleven week journey with fourteen days in Woolhope, Herefordshire – a village where my paternal grandfather was born and a place that I have regularly come to over the years with my parents. This area has provided some wonderful memories for me and it is a great place to return to. The countryside has mature trees, thick hedgerows and is alive with wildlife.

We left Walton Thorns Farm having had a good chat with our host Graham about the birds on his farm. The small number of birds in and around the buildings can be attributed to regular visits made by Sparrow Hawk. The trail camera did not capture a thing and we will have another go at Christmas.

Saturday afternoon was spent in The Shed at Kingsholm trying to shout on a transitional Gloucester side that were overpowered in the first half but managed to do much better in the second  but we still lost by five points. The atmosphere created by this home crowd was refreshing and there was none of the chanting and obscene language of the round ball game. It was just a friendly place to be with real ale and Guinness available to drink during the match. Afterwards there was more beer and a curry in Gloucester City Centre with some very good friends. It was so good to sit with many others wearing the cherry and white of their home team.

Yesterday it was a’ Sunday Lunch’ with the same friends in The Crown Inn next to the church in Woolhope. It was all so thoroughly enjoyable. This morning we are catching up with ourselves, enjoying the birdsong outside and waiting for the sun to burn off the mist. Yesterday evening we had a Buzzard perched close by and as the light went Tawny Owls were calling.  

WALTON-ON-THE-WOLDS

We have been very fortunate with our English summer up until now. We have had rain but it barely affected whatever we were doing on any particular day.

Our location is on Six Hills Farm in Walton-on-the Wolds and as I write this I am looking out on saturated land that needs more sun and no more rain. This is our second day of heavy rain but it is forecast that clear skies will appear later. This is a beautiful renovated barn to stay in and one that we will be back to for this coming Christmas. It is a very good choice and the best accommodation in eleven weeks.

We have set the ‘trail camera’ up but nothing seems to have come close to activate it. There is both Fallow and Muntjac deer in the vicinity, together with Fox, Badger and elegant Hares. They are on show daily but we have only seen one at a time. Buzzards have flown regularly and we know that there is Kestrel here as well. Yesterday morning I walked out and had a good sighting of a Mistle Thrush feeding on the weather beaten cornfield and then I had my treat of the day when a male Yellowhammer flew up and perched on top of the hedge. I watched it for several minutes and was thrilled by its bright yellow head and brown body albeit straggly in the rain. We disturbed two Tawny Owls the other evening but have not heard or seen them since. Apparently there are Barn Owls here as well.

I think that this winter is going to be very tough particularly for the small bird populations. Although there is plenty of good cover with all the hedgerows but the berries seem to have gone already if, they were there at all after this very wet summer.

Sadly there are hardly any birds around the farm buildings and I surmise that there are no suitable nesting sites. I expected that there would be House Sparrows but not one was on view. In fact the last sparrow that we saw were Tree Sparrows at Rutland Water

SAMMI HIPWELL 18 AT LAST!!!

Our main reason for visiting Leicestershire was because our neice Sammi turned 18 on 24th August.  We had a family meal, the food was lovely but expensive and the service was rubbish! But the company was great and we had a fabulous time!!!!!

The following day was the party of the year at Quorn Football Club, who played in their first FA Cup game and won!!  We had an alcoholic time and Sammi drank rather alot of Zambucca (Yuk!)  She received many presents ranging from socks (don´t ask) to proper Champagne!  I didn´t get any Champagne on my 18th!!!!!

Little Sis Joss and Nephew AJ

Birthday Girl and Sean

Joss, Brother In Law Brian and Big Sis Sue

More photos will be on Facebook when I get online at our next lot of accomodation.

HIGHS BUT NO LOWS

I was asked last night by Neal ‘On The Trains’ Ball what was the highlight so far. I had already anticipated that someone would ask this and my instant thought is that it has been all good – so much so that it seems that I have been having a great time everywhere we have been. I know that Michelle will have her own thoughts on this and I suspect that I can name a couple of her highs at least. She will say so later.

The one continual thought that I do have is just how beautiful England really is. We have seen some great trees and the countryside, thankfully, is littered with them. The five hundred or so years old oak at Tockwith sticks in my mind not because of its girth but because it is still there after centuries have past. It has history too for it is recorded that there was a field hospital under its younger limbs by Cromwell after the battle of Marston Moor which occurred a mile or so down the road in 1644.

We are staying at Oakham, Rutland Water is a mere 10 minutes away with great trees surrounded by English greens everywhere one looks. They are all fantastic.

Friday (18^th) was our first visit to a Bird Fair. Lots to see and we did. To pursue our hobbies of birding and photography were on our primary list to achieve. We were also on a research mission to glean as much information in respect of Australia, including Tasmania, and New Zealand. We did that and more when we sat in for talks on, Andalucia, Extremadura and Sierra Andujar. This latter one was given by a birding friend Julian Sykes on how to see ‘El Lince’, the Iberian Lynx.  You can see him on his website at www.juliansykeswildlife.com   It is always good to see someone you know and chat over things. We enjoyed the weekend on some hot English summer days. The sun has really shone for us.

Today Michelle was in Leicester doing family things. I spent the day in the nature reserve. This is a must do site and even the Osprey flew in the afternoon. I concentrated on a few ducks which included Teal, Gadwell, Shoveller, Pochard and Scaup. I saw both Common and Green Sandpipers and also a Little Stint. All very worthwhile and I will go there again before we leave here. Another great day in England with some good moments writing this blog at The Grainstore while downing a pint of Rutland Panther. They have six ales and one mild all of their own and this coming Thursday is the start of the 13th Rutland Beer Festival when they will rack up 70 different ales, beers etc. I have tasted the six but 70! See them on www.grainstorebrewery.com if you are a beer buff like me.              

OLYMPICS TO MINSMERE

It’s time for a ‘down’ day as we have been seeing so much and so, this morning, it is time to catch our proverbial breathe to reflect. In short we are having a bloody fantastic time having combined London’s – or should I say Britain’s  - Olympics with our stay in England. I can still see the images of Eton Dorney, the podium at Hampton Court getting ready to present another gold medal and two Saturday evenings at the Olympic Stadium at Stratford in East London. Terrific stuff, terrific viewing that was full of emotion and national pride.

Whoever came up with the term ‘Games Makers’ for the volunteers deserves a gold medal for enhancing their contribution from that mundane word of ‘steward’.  This should really be given the accolade of ‘The Friendly Games’ for there seemed to be smiles everywhere. The British Broadcasting Corporation provided the best coverage that anyone could produce. We have some great presenters who did their nation proud. While all this was going on we were still doing our own thing as you can see from previous blogs.

Since then we have been concentrating on more birding and photography. Both the Bittern and Bearded Tit had eluded us at Cley, Titchwell, and Lakenheath Fen. Yesterday we made a one and half hour journey through England’s beautiful rurality to go to Minsmere a marvellous RSPB site.

We had already spent hours looking for these elusive two species. Our luck soon changed. We met two friendly birders and when they entered our hide the Bittern flew. After twelve sightings we were on a high and the shots Michelle took ensured that we can see this great bird on a screen. The Bearded Tit was much more difficult with only a brief sighting as one dived back into the reeds. There is always tomorrow.  We were a little late for adult Hobbies but a juvenile one flew down a dyke while we were waiting for a Bittern to fly again.      

TRAINS, TRAINS AND RAILWAYS

It all started at the beginning of our holiday with Neal and Robbie and real ale and brass at the Bluebell Railway.  We are now on our third railway or forth if you include a disused railway track that we walked down.

Number two on the railway journey through England was the North Yorks Moors railway which starts in Pickering and makes it way north towards Whitby.  It was great we were with Rachel, Claudio and the boys and visited the station that was used for Hogsmeade in Harry Potter - very exciting!

Our third railway was a disused line between Robin Hoods Bay to Whitby.  A nice 8.5 mile walk along a cinder track with good views of the sea and we saw hares, butterflies and a poor rabbit with mycimatosis (that is definitely spelt wrong!)

Our most recent trip was today when we travelled on the North Norfolk Railway from Holt to Sherringham to see Gill, Ken and Roxy Dog.  It was a short trip but a fantastic one.  At Holt station we brought our tickets one adult and one old person ticket.  They were proper old fashioned card tickets.  The engine was a gleaming black one and you could see the coal store.  It looked like something out of the Railway Children!  The route is along the coast and you can see windmills out at sea and the old ones on the coast.

Shiny Engine with driver, coal man and coal!

Windmills old and new

View from the train.

After a fantastic day with Gill and Ken we arrived at Holt and made our way home via The Three Swallows, the pub down the road, to watch the Olympics and look for the Barn Owl that flies accross the field in front of where we are staying.  No Barn Owl this evening but a gorgeous sunset.



HALF WAY THROUGH

Today marks the half way trip of our tour round England.  We are staying on the north Norflolk coast.  It is gorgeous and the weather is too!!  John is in his element birdwatching everyday.  He has put all the details on his other blog for those of you who want to know the details the address is http://johnedwards-je.blogspot.com

Tomorrow we have a day off from birdwatching.  We are going to see Kenny and Gill who used to live round the corner from us in Spain.  We are traveling from Holt to Sherringham on the North Norfolk Railway, (the Poppy Line).

We have ten more days in Norfolk and then we head inland to Rutland and then Leicestershire for the party of the year!! Sammi, my neice is 18!  I feel very old!!! 

WEATHER UPDATE

Just wanted to let you know that the weather has been good in sunny blighty!  We have only had to wear our waterproof trousers once!!! Off out tomorrow for a run and then birdwatching!  Looking at the forecast may need the waterproofs tomorrow afternoon.  More on the writing festival coming soon.

ON THE ROAD AGAIN!

The end of our fifth week saw us leaving Boggle Hole on the North Yorkshire coast, heading for Cley in Norfolk via Blacktoft Sands just a few miles east of Goole and south of the Humber. This is an important reserve run by RSPB. It’s a great place to sit and watch and give yourself a surprise or two.

The Tree Sparrow has made wonderful recoveries where the habitat has been restored for them to feed, nest and breed and here at Blacktoft is one of the locations where they exist in good numbers.  

We also saw Black-tailed Godwits, Coot, Dunlin, Green Sandpipers, Lapwing, Little Grebe, Little Ringed Plover, Mallard, Moorhen, Pheasant, Redshank and Spotted Redshank, Ruff, Snipe, and Teal.

While we were watching the water birds two adult and two juvenile Marsh Harriers put on an ariel display for us which also included a parent dropping a meal for the youngster to catch. One of the young ones perched on top of a bush where we could see the immature plumage and compare it with an adult.  

Patience paid off when a Water Rail emerged from the reeds and showed itself. This was not a first for us but they are always difficult to see. The other elusive one is the Bittern which is what we hope to see in Norfolk.

Blacktoft is a great place to go to, it is well organised, the hides are very good and the birds are on show. You should give it a visit and we would love to go back as there is so much to see. We did manage to see both Sedge and Reed Warbler with a male Blackcap showing.

Tomorrow it is going to be Cley Marshes just outside our door!

UPDATE

Well it has been a while since we last posted on our blog due to a non existent internet connection. Now we can get online – hooray!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Since we last wrote we have been to the Theakston Crime Writing Festival and also spent a week with Rachel, Claudio and the boys.

I have been looking forward to the Crime Writing Festival since we decided to attend over a year ago. Most of you know that I love my books and am a little obsessed. The line up at the festival promised to be brilliant. There were authors that I had heard of and liked and plenty of authors that were new to me. I had brought with me a selection of books from my favourite authors to get signed. I had also brought some new ones when I was with Neal and Robbie in Hove and also some second hand books at the best second had book shop that I have ever been in, Barter Books in Alnwick.

We were staying at The Old Swan Hotel in Harrogate and all the events take place in the hotel so we were on site. I will start at the beginning. We drove into the car park with flags waving and an outline of a dead body in the car park marked with tape. There were people sat outside in the sunshine drinking and relaxing. I rushed John to park and to hurry into the hotel. On the left as we walked through the revolving brass handled doors was Festival reception we collected our tickets and goody bags. The bags contained free(ish) books and a bottle of Theakston Old Peculiar each. We checked in and went upstairs to the first floor and walked down tired and water damaged corridors to our room, 138. Fortunately the room was lovely and we had view of a roof!!

After unloading the car we had a beer and I went straight to the book shop. I cannot describe the shop it was a dream shop full of every crime book I could ever want and then some. I had to leave and go back in later as it was quite overwhelming.

John persuaded me that we did need to leave the hotel to eat so a quick shower and change and we walked down the hill to a pub which served real ale (of course) . We had a quick bite to eat and returned to the hotel, I didn´t want to miss anything that was going on. I brought my first batch of books and then went to the opening event which was the prize giving. Mark Billingham opened the event and then ´Simon Theakston spoke. Each of the short-listed six authors were interviewed by Mark Lawson. John Connolly got the biggest cheer! The award went to Denise Mina (I had never heard of her!) for her book The End of The Wasp Season. She was great and so surprised. Colin Dexter also received a life time achievement award and although he is no longer a spring chicken he was witty and it was an honour to see him collect his award. We collected our free(ish) drinks, Crime of Passion, made especially for the weekend, it looked like beer and ribena! We then went author spotting. I was exhausted. We went to bed and set the alarm for 6.30am.

PUFFINS! PUFFINS! PUFFINS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

This was the purpose of the trip which was to see the Puffins. Madam was not disappointed for how could she be with thousands in the sea, flying over it, flying over us and underneath our feet. There is much more to say for this was an amazing day.

We left the harbour at Seahouses aboard The Glad Tidings to head out towards The Farne Islands. There was plenty to see with Terns, Shags, Puffins and Gannets all around us. We were unable to land on Staples but we ‘ hove to’ alongside cliffs of sheer rock covered in a white dressing – you could smell it too. The rocks were covered with Guillemots and every niche had a Kittiwake clinging to it – telling us their name constantly. There were still a few Razorbills that had delayed their departure just for us with the occasional Fulmar showing.

Grey/Atlantic Seals were plentiful and they are good fun to watch. Thankfully, there is a good population of them here.

We were able to land on Inner Farne. Arctic Terns were everywhere mostly within feet of us and not shy to show there annoyance at the intruders. Intrusion of the human kind you may think would seriously affect them but the alternative is true. It may be that us humans give protection and reduce predation which was what the breeding results show.

There was also a colony of Sandwich Terns with a smaller number of Common Tern also breeding on this rocky island.

For Michelle, she came for ‘The Puffins’ and she saw thousands and did her best to get some good shots. They fly fast and furious and to capture one in flight is difficult. She did very well but you will have to wait to see her results. We did get close up and personal when one of the wardens showed us one that he had caught. They are beautiful, amazing and funny birds. What a privilege to see so many in a small area.

For me, being that close to so many seabirds, was a great experience. It was a good learning day.   

We returned to harbour on a sea that was as though it was a slightly ruffled cloth of silk shining under a re-emerging summer sun. A roadside pub beckoned which quenched our thirst and gave time to reflect on another good day.       

One of my favourite Puffin shots!

NO MORE BLOODY HOTELS!

Finally, no more bloody Travel Lodges or any sort of a hotel room. We have been on the road for two weeks and it is, well exciting, to be in the same place for a week. This holiday accommodation is superb, modern and fitted to a high ‘spec’. It is lovely.

We are now a few miles south of Bamburgh , the northern most point of our travels. It is a relatively short journey from Durham which overall we did enjoy. The friendliness of ‘the northerners’ shone through wherever we went.

Our morning’s journey soon saw us relishing all the greens of an English summer. Yes, it may have been a bit damp, but nothing fell from the skies. After living in Cornwall with the past six years spent in Spain we appreciated every tree that we went past. These English giants are a joy to see.

Amble was the first stop with a boat trip to Cocquet Island on the itinerary but now planned for Sunday- we hadn’t booked! Here there is the largest colony of Roseate Terns in UK which we will see, weather permitting.

Alnwick with its great castle was our afternoon adventure but not really for history but for ‘The Harry Potter Tour’ of course for some of the first two films were shot here. Fascinating, for why spoil a good story for the sake of the truth. We eventually got round to talking about the other ‘Harry’ but who cares about an ancient member of the Percy family who thought highly of himself but not immortal. He died at the battle of Shrewsbury in 1403 trying to keep Henry IV off the throne.

Shakespeare thought it a good enough story to write about it. He just gave another different take on history.   

Tomorrow we will be visiting The Farne Islands and everything that flies.

THE SOUTH COAST NORTHWARDS

We left Hove (on Monday 9^th) and our friends behind after a very alcoholic week-end to head towards the M25 and a quick coffee and a chat with my son Matthew- we will see him later in Yorkshire . The real attraction was the dogs he has which were born in our home in Cornwall on 20^th July 1999. They both looked good and it was good to see them before we head on – after all it may be our last chance to see them in fine fettle.

It was then onto M25 and then onto M40 where we knew there was a good spot to see Red Kites as well as woodland birds. However the weather was against us and so we continued heading north to Stratford-on-Avon and Shakespeare. Planning is always good but a slight slip of the memory and a sudden cold did mean that Monday’s Richard III did not happen. Just one of those things. It is now booked for a matinee in September. Instead, on the following night, we saw a performance in The Swan Theatre relating to the Aztecs entitled ‘ A Soldier in every Son’ which was a bit different to most works of the Bard but, nevertheless, it was all good stuff.

 Who would have thought I would be drinking Estrella in Stratford Upon Avon!

The following morning we were on the move again on the way to Durham via Woodhouse Eves – to visit Joss and the kids, put flowers on Richard’s grave (Michelle’s father) and to have lunch at ‘The Wheatsheaf’ where Richard was born and then to Durham.

We arrived on a very wet evening but when there is a Camra guide on the Satnav what else could we do. Then it was a wet walk to ‘The Dun Cow’ and then we found ‘The Shakespeare’. What could be better than a literary drink of old fashioned English ale?

The following morning saw us gathering our thoughts before we set foot down to the high spots of the city – the Cathedral and University. Scaffolding and signage everywhere does not help the photographer at all. It is some building this monster of a place of religion but I did not feel that comfortable within it. You have to give credit to the designer, craftsmen and labourers that contributed to this structure and you have to believe that they had a great degree of skill and faith in their own ability was necessary to complete it. I wonder how many people died in its construction but they were totally different times to what we know today. The history and the religion did not sit comfortably although I sat very quietly at noon to listen to the prayers and I say unequivocally that I could not dis-agree with any of it. Topics such as Syria, Libya and ‘The Bankers’ were all included and if prayers would do any good, I would happily join in with that. 

We needed a less active day and so a little bit of shopping, a spell of watching the world go by, a little ale and meeting some friendly and informative locals helped us complete our day. There were even notes made for a poem or two and some photographs taken to add to the archive.

Tomorrow morning it is Amble, Alnwick and our first week in one place at Seahouses just along the coast from Bamburgh. This will give us opportunities for seabirds and photography.  

HOVE ACTUALLY

No jokes, (about not living in Brighton but in Hove, actually)  this time around as we had a cracking three days with our good friends Mr Neal Ball and Mr Robbie C Wells (alphabetically listed, of course). We knew that it was going to be very sociable and definitely ‘acofrolic’. To assist in this regard they imported two friends for the evening so that we would be in ever better company. Amanda is a work colleague of Neal’s and Peter alias Pooks is his personal trainer. This did work exceptionally well as the bottles became empty very quickly and were lined up for disposal like soldiers on parade!

Apart from the above need to consume something liquid, there was also a need to eat (it helps to keep one upright, you know) but in addition we had to bring three songs along which we thought were the most favourite/important/or because we just liked them. Then say why these were the chosen ones from our pasts.

 It was easy for me as ‘Bat out of Hell’ would always be top of my list. Meatloaf and I have shared some tearful days together which was then followed by ‘The Famous Final’. You may not even know about Bob Seger and his Silver Bullet Band but it makes no difference to me for the lyrics deserve a good listening to. My third choice was Don McLean’s ‘American Pie’ which keeps coming around and around and seems timeless. It was the most popular song for the boys to sing when we both worked in ‘The Darlington’ in Camelford. There you are three great tracks but the choices are wide.

Interestingly American artists featured heavily with two Beatles tracks featuring later on.

Michelle chose ‘You Give Love a Bad Name’ by Bon Jovi (it had to be one of theirs, of course), followed by ‘Baker Street’ by the late Gerry Rafferty and her third choice was ‘Looking for Paradise’ by Alicia Keyes and Alejandro Sanz. This one was the only one that was 21^st Century!

Amongst the others were Tina Turner, The Eagles, Michael Jackson, Pulp, Abba and Bowie and after that our memories have faded away. However, all bloody good choices.

Our short train journey on The Bluebell is included in a separate article which was written on the request of Neal to be sent to the railway, and is going to  be published in the next Bluebell Railway News.

Sunday saw us visit the old town of Lewes. The main purpose was to go to Argos and to lunch in one of its fine watering holes. It certainly is an interesting place with fine old buildings, a castle and with a river running through it. It was all good.

Robbie did us both proud with his efforts as a host and chef. He was rewarded when we found a suitable novel and film to keep him occupied while he is ‘home alone’ during the week.

Thanks for your company and for some super days when we were all together again.

We will see them in Spain on our return but there is a lot more to look forward to before then  

ON THE SOUTH COAST

Our first two nights in England were spent in Chichester in a Travelodge just up the road from the Cathedral, which we didn't visit!  On our first day, after the birdwatching, we did a little shopping! 

We had done our homework and we knew that Selsey Bill and Bracklesham Bay would allow us to watch gulls, terns and maybe some waders with the former site being more important during the migratory months.

CHURCH NORTON (Grid reference  SZ 872 958 ) is located on the edge of Pagham Harbour and is an interesting location having mature trees and a tidal marsh with shingle banks. Singing over head was a Song Thrush and on a tree opposite was a male Green Woodpecker. Looking over the marsh we could see Black-tailed Godwit with Curlew showing well and calling. Oystercatchers were easily evident and nesting with Greenshank and Redshank feeding in the mud. We saw one Sandwich Tern with numerous Black-Headed and Herring Gulls doing their own noisy thing. Both Heron and Little Egret were seen but with weather and time against us we felt that there was much more to see on a return visit.

We then visited The RSPB Reserve which is located on the Selsey/Chichester road and is sign posted. Persistent rain drove us into a hide which overlooked a lake which provided very good views of various waders, including Lapwing and a Little Gull. Leaving the hide we saw and photographed a White Throat.

The above locations are important sites and we would recommend the latter two. The Wildfowl & Wetland Centre at Arundel is a must. There are many ducks and geese to observe but our aim was to see the Water Vole. We visited this site on both days and saw voles on each of them and more than once on each boat ride. We sat within feet of them while they chewed away. They are just great to see.

Our other stars were Sedge Warblers and a Reed Warbler rattling away in the reed outside reception. Peregine Falcons also obliged on both occasions and we watched a perched one drying himself out after rain. We just needed more time.      

ON THE FERRY GOING OVER

We left Bilbao on the 8.30 ferry to Portsmouth arriving at the same hour on Tuesday 4^th July. The wind was light and the temperature was around 23C. It’s all so easy it certainly is much better than the constant waiting at airports. There is not that much to say but it is relaxing with no need to rush around.

Birds and marine life were very disappointing to start with but we soon had three separate sightings   of dolphin. The ‘ORCA’ representative on board soon enlightened us and I can now tell whether it is a common dolphin or not. I later stood with him on the upper deck and saw clearly the markings of this species. Birding was slow but then there were (possibly) either Cory’s or Sooty Shearwaters skimming the waves. I may be able to tell the difference one day!  Then there were immature Gannets flying overhead. I know that they are not adult because the book says so and the older ones are too busy parenting – it’s that time of year. No bloody whales though – princely or otherwise.  

We arrived and the photo below was our first view of Blighty!

BILBAO GUGGENHEIM MUSEO

This building together with it hosting The David Hockney Exhibition was our reason for staying two nights here. It was the right decision for we enjoyed our stroll through the riverside streets and the experience of ‘The Guggenheim’. Rio Nervión is the central thread of one of the capital cities of The Basque Country. Steep sides either side dominate the sky line as well as ten floors of apartment blocks. Some of it is old but modern is everywhere. The streets are clean with hardly any graffiti.

Well done, the Basques.

Modern is what you will say about the ‘museo’. I am not going to describe it you can see it for yourself because that is what everyone should try to do. The exhibition is wonderful and we have bought a very large book to remind us and to show you.

Both are inspiring works, one of architecture and the other of paintings.  The paintings explore Hockney’s idea of his journey and of how to put space in his work. What an inspirational experience. His technological use of ‘The Ipad’ is exceptional. We would do it all again.

 The two photos are of the exterior of The Guggenheim and John drinking!!!!

OUR APARTMENT BILBAO

Just a quick note about our lovely apartment in Bilbao.  We are staying in a one bedroomed fourth floor apartment looking accross the river and a railway line.  It is a little noisy but nice to have space!  We are a 20 minute walk to the Guggenheim and we have booked to go tomorrow.

ON THE MOVE AGAIN

We are on the move again this morning to head towards Bilbao. First we are going to a wetlands site only 5km from the Basque capital Vitoria-Gasteiz. Travelling north we encounter great rolling fields of corn with the harvesters toiling away before the rain comes, even though it is a Sunday. The deciduous trees have luxuriant growth of varying hues of green. It is great to be in this sort of environment again and away from ‘The Med’.

We find our site easily and there is water! In fact plenty of it and it is teeming with wildlife. Storks (again) are in view by the sackful with waterfowl in abundance. There is not enough time to do this massive area justice and so we will have to come back again possibly in winter or during the spring/autumn migration periods. There is so much to see in País Vasco apart from wildlife or the Atlantic coast but because there is so much history here.

Tomorrow is a day set aside for David Hockney’s exhibition in The Guggenheim and some exploration of Bilbao. Then, on Tuesday morning, drive onto the ferry and hopefully land in Portsmouth the following morning at 8.30am.

TUDELA

The alarm sounds at 5am and after just over two hours activity we are sitting in the car at 7.21am and off on day one of an eleven week journey. This morning we travel north past Alicante and Valencia, turning northwards as we pass around that city to follow the route of ‘The Mighty Ebro’, towards the town of Tudela in Navarra. Our stay is for two nights is to allow a break in the journey and so that we can explore.

On leaving the Mediterranean coast and as we turn northwards the scenery becomes prettier and eventually the altitude is over one thousand metres.  Everywhere there are yellow New Hollands, red Massey Harrises being followed by green tractors with blue trailers waging a war against a never ending horizon of cornfields. We pass countless cattle complexes and can only guess where the labours of the harvesters will end up. Modernity has meant that the old stone falling down buildings with their terracotta tiles of varying hues have been left – just to fall down.  

Arriving at the modern ‘bed4U’ hotel after listening for ‘mama’ having the odd fit because Spanish roads do not always agree with the authoritarian voice GPS inspired Satnav we turn her off to neglect her until we need ‘her’ again. It is now 2pm and 39C. Later exploring the green fields that Rio Ebro has allowed to be made productive there are White Storks in fields with Red Kites and Marsh Harriers zooming around in a very gusty wind. It was like standing in front of a hot fan oven with the door open.

Fuelled by the Chinese Wok our beds are calling, for in the morning it is another 6am start to see what is about before the heat of another day makes it difficult. While sitting in bed having the first tea of the day we start our birding for there are families of Storks lording it over us from their lofty pylon homes. So our day has begun and the Ebro shines in the early sun. Later on it is Las Bardenas Reales with miles upon miles of wind sculptured strange shaped towering  monuments of layers of stone. Strange it all is. Heading for back there is an excellent view of a first/second year Golden Eagle and then a perched Short-toed  Eagle took off and displayed for us. A beer on the way home was a necessity.

An evening jaunt allowed us to see two hunting Marsh Harriers but the strong wind saw us return early. I am sure that there is plenty more to see but maybe next time!

   

WHERE ARE WE TO!

We arrive in Portsmouth on July 4^th and spend two nights in Chichester before spending a boozy weekend in Hove with our good friends Neal Ball and Robbie Wells, including an evening at The Bluebell Railway for some Real Ale and Brass. 

On 9^th July we are travelling north eventually ending up in Bamburgh on 13^th July where we will be visiting the Farne Islands and catching up with some relatives.  From here we go to Harrogate for a Crime Writing Festival.

Rachel (John´s daughter), Claudio and the grandchildren will be joining us for a crazy week in Yorkshire.  We spend one more week in Yorkshire and then we have two weeks in Norfolk.  Hopefully, with some good days out bird-watching and catching up with some friends.

On 17^th August we head to Rutland Water for the Annual Bird Fair.  We are both looking forward to this as we have never been before and we are booked on a boat trip around Rutland Water with Simon King.

On 24^th August it is Sammi’s (Michelle’s niece) 18^th Birthday so we will be spending time with the Hipwells!

Finally we are spending the first two weeks in September in Woolhope, the village where John’s grandfather was born.

We then return to Spain!

PRELUDE TO OUR TRAVELS

Welcome to our blog for our travels northwards via Tudela to Bilbao. Our route takes us along some of the course of the mighty Rio Ebro where we will see what is flying. One of the towns has nesting storks and that will be worth seeing.

Once in Bilbao there will be a visit to The Guggenheim where there is an exhibition of David Hockney’s work. This area is new to us and in two days it will not be possible to do it justice.

 

We only have four days in Spain before we embark for Portsmouth on 3^rd July, arriving on the following morning.

This year has just ramped away and now it is only six days before we leave home. Most of the packing has been done and the excitement is mounting in anticipation of eleven weeks of travel, visiting locations and people.